Ursula’s Travels in Sunny Greece

Athens

acropolis from Thisio I decided to make a stop to my sunny trips on the islands and to talk about Athens.

There are several reasons for this decision: of course one is because Athens is an European Capital and it would worth to visit it at least once, another because it is one of the few capitals with a history of thousands of years – and like Rome it is an open air museums. Another again because now I live here.

BUT for you, travelers, looking for Sunny and warm Summer destinations, it is important to dedicate a chapter to this city since you may stop here one night / a couple of days in order to get to your island and it would be a pity not to enjoy this very nice European capital :)

Some info about Athens – ελλ. Αθήνα

The city of Athens takes the name from goddess Athena, Goddess of Wisdom and daughter of Zeus. She was the protector deity of the city.

They say half of the Greeks live in Athens and it could be true if you consider that all Attica (Regions around Athens) has a population of 4 millions – total Greek population is 11 million people.

In Athens you find the very famous Piraeus port – from where you have connections with most of Greek islands. There is one airport, E. Venizelos, pretty new and clean too.

At the airport you will find all the info you need about Athens – and tourist offices are open until the last flight lands. From the airport you can get directly to the center of Athens with the underground. If you need to go to Piraeus you should change at Syntagma station (where there is the Parliament) and take the green line. http://www.athensguide.com/metromap.html

You can also take a taxi – the fair would be from 20euros to 30 euros, depending on the traffic. Please consider there is an extra charge for the luggage and if they take the Attiki Odos – therefore do not be negative impressed if they are asking you for more money than what you see on the display. Another thing you should know about taxis in Greece in general is that most of the time they stop and carry other passengers – if you do not want it you have to point it out immediately once you step into the car.

Athens

shop at plaka Every time I come back to Athens from the plane I am always positive impressed by the immensity of this city. From the plane you see a huge carpet of white houses and you cannot understand where it begins and finishes. You see the mountains surrounding Attica and of course … the sea ! I should say that Athens is a city more developed in horizontal rather than in vertical – I do not think that there are any skyscrapers or in any case buildings very high. Greeks love to have their owns house, even in the center and why not ! make their own barbecue in their garden (actually my neighbor does barbecue every Saturday evening of the year, and when I say every Saturday I mean also in winter when it is cold and it may rain !! )

Unfortunately this is quite a new city and apart from the Acropolis and its surrounding area there is no sign of the great past of Athens. I was told that in the past the center of Athens was very beautiful, like the small chora you can see in the islands. Actually if you walk in Plaka you could imagine how the city was long time ago …..For the same reason in Athens living in the center is not considered to be chic – unless you live in Plaka, Thisio, Kolonaki – I mean the area really surrounding the Acropolis. In Athens it is considered chic if you live in Kifisia (by the mountain) or in Glyfada – by the sea – places quite far from the center.

As you will see, apart from the strict center of the city, the city is not very nice. You should know that after the second World War most of the Greeks came to Athens (that was completely destroyed) to find a job and big buildings have been built and in a very short time – paying no attention (or very little) to design and respect of space. I might say that in Athens the problem of parking is even more than in other European capitals on average. Also in the center there are such narrow streets that in order to go with the car you have to close the mirrors of your car.

Your trip to Athens

view from Acropolis If you are coming to Athens for a long weekend of even if you stop just for one night I think that you will understand the magic of this city. Once you will see the Acropolis lighted in the night you will be fascinated and for a while you will not be able to say a word ….. it still happens to me every time I go to the center ….. beautiful ! you can really feel history.

If you are staying just for one night I would suggest you to stay in Plaka, Monastiraki – to go to a nice taverna and enjoy the view of the Acropolis. My Greek friends think that this is a very touristic place but – you are tourists :) All the area is pedestrian and it’s very nice and green indeed. You can walk from Syntagma till Thisio and actually even further.

If you are going to spend more time … you will enjoy yourself a lot: Athens is an open air museum – and the weather is always very nice – you just need to walk and walk and walk and walk :) So good suggestion: very comfortable pair of shoes – not slippery since all the pavement in the center is in marble! And if it is summer – since there may be even up to 40 degrees – a hat, sun cream, water and sun glasses !

What to see

What to see – IMPORTANT – I know I will forget thousands of things and details but I am not a touristic guide :) – I just want to give you first impressions and ideas to what to do here in Athens in a couple of days or less and I will concentrate mainly in the center.

If you are quite lazy and do not have a lot of time, good idea would be to take the hop and off touristic bus

http://www.city-sightseeing.com/index.phtml?command=search&clear-search=true&destinations=athens

Please consider that in order to visit the surroundings of

Acropolis

you need 2 days. Also do not forget to go to the

New Acropolis museumhttp://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/?la=2

– I went in daytime but I would suggest you to go during the evening. You will be in the museum with view to amazing lighted Acropolis – I think it would be more suggestive – and you would spend your daytime in visiting places that are closed in the evening.Most of the places below are close to the

Acropolis

, and you can visit them by having a nice walk in all pedestrian areas.

No hurry to visit everything ! you are in Greece and you have to enter in siga’ siga’ mood (slowly slowly mood). Do not forget to enjoy a greek coffee too – caffe’ frappe‘ – this is Greece !! NB for the caffe’ frappe’ they usually put sugar while preparing it – therefore the waiter will ask you how you prefer it: metrio (with some sugar) – gliko’ (quite sweet) – pikro’ (bitter). Be ready with the answer :)

Acropolis

If you are going to visit the Acropolis you will buy a ticket that will be valid to enter in the main museums in the center – therefore do not throw it away.

In the Acropolis you will see the world wide famous Parthenon, I also really like the Theatre of Dionysos and of course you will see Caryatids (original pieces are in the New Acropolis Museum) but I am not going to explain all artistic beauties in details you will see up there (a guide will do much better ) but I will give you nice suggestions: were comfortable shoes, not leather since it will be very slippery on the marble and please consider that your way up to the hill of the Acropolis is not very easy. Buy a bottle of water before going to the Acropolis, enjoy the view and take as many pictures as possible. From Acropolis you will have an amazing view to all Athens – it is breath taking!

Ancient Agora

I also really like this place. It is close to Acropolis, there is a beautiful Temple of Hephaestus: it is the best preserved Doric temple in Greece. There is also a museum I suggest to visit and please have a walk in all the area, it is very green and you can relax under the shadow of a tree. it could also be a good opportunity to plan your next places to visit :)

The Keramikos

The Kerameikos was the city’s cemetery from the 12th century BC to Roman Times – there is also a museum inside with sculptures, vases etc … In order to get there you should walk on the pedestrian street from Thisio to Gazi (new trendy place of Athens, with clubs, nice restaurants – with museums too) Despite its central location, this site is one of the greenest places in Athens.

Plaka – I really like this part of Athens, it reminds me to be in an island. Narrow pedestrian and paved streets, with nice colorful touristic shops, tavernas and very nice and old building. From Plaka you have a great view of the Acropolis.

Syntagma – at the end of Ermou Street you will find Syntagma Square. On top of it there is the Parliament and every hour there is the change of the guard. It’s very suggesting – militars (ebzoni) walk if they were doing a dance, implying great efforts and strength to what they do.

New Acropolis Museum – it is very nice and interesting. All original places from Acropolis have been transferred there. On the last floor – where there is the Parthenon – you really can imagine how it was in the past. I strongly recommend to stop and see the video that runs – that explains the story of the Parthenon. It will take only 15 minutes but will help a lot !

The Temple of the Olympian Zeus in Athens

From the Acropolis you can see it – it is just close to Plaka and it is also very close to the other monuments of Athens, such as Kallimarmaro Stadium, the Hadrian’s Arch and Zappeion Megaron.

Kallimarmaron Stadium – it is really impressive. I have never been there but I was told that sometimes they do concert .. it should be very suggesting !

Well …. better for me to stop here: I do not want to annoy you.

For a “virtual tour” please have a look at the following link :) enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWk5Tox0ilk&feature=player_embedded#at=167

A chapter for my female readers!! Shopping !!!!

Girls!!! this is a place where you can get crazy for the shoes and in Summer it is simply unbelievable to see how many beautiful colorful sandals there are in the shops. If you go to Ermou street you will understand what I mean.

Coming back to shopping – Athens offers whatever you are looking for – following different suggestions for different shopping:

Expensive shops – well your place is Kolonaki that is located between Lycavittos Hill and Syntagma square. It’s a nice hills, where you will find all expensive brands and enjoy your shopping. There are very nice cafe’s, clubs and tavernas. Kolonaki is a smart residential district of Athens. This is the central chic Athens !

Shopping for anyone – I would suggest you to go to Ermou (from Monastiraki to Syntagma). This is the paradise for women … I cannot count how many shops of shoes there are in this street.

Flee market – it is close to Monastiraki Underground stations. There are nice shops of handmade jewels :)

Eating

Greeks eat a lot of meat and pasta that they call makaronada – so …. be prepared for this diet :)

Good to know – they always have a salad in their meal, all food will be served together and it is common practice to share the food. All dishes will be placed on the table and people take from them.

Whenever you will be hungry you will always find a place to eat ! Restaurants open around 11am and close after midnight.

The good thing about food in Greece is that you can eat with only 4-5 euros !!! having one souvlakia with a coke. This is usually what I do when I am on holidays and I am quite short of money … maybe this is not good for your diet but your wallet will breath:)

In the center you will find nice tavernas where you can enjoy classical greek food – moussaka, tzatziki, feta, choriatiki salat, biftekia ….. don’t worry !! you will always find the Menu in English and you will understand what you are going to eat.

For people that love fish …. I would suggest to go to Castella (microlimano), it is an outskirt of Athens close to Piraeus. It is a very small port, surrounded by a hill – Very suggestive !! If you go to these restaurants you will have the sensation to eat on the sea ….. atually must come back shortly :)
If you decide to go there I would suggest you to book the restaurant one day before (at least!) and to ask to sit by the sea: I always go to the same restaurant “Ammos” http://www.ammosmikrolimano.gr/home.htm that I strongly recommend because food is very good and the costs is reasonable comparing to other restaurants in Castella. Forget to take your car in Castella – better to come with a taxi !

Last but not least …. If you still have one free afternoon I would strongly recommend you to go to Cape of Sounio, about 70 km from Athens, dominated by the spectacular Temple of Poseidon.

I could write a book about Athens and I am very sorry to stop here the article about this magic city….but I am worried to write too much. Of course for any questions just write me on the blog and I would be more than happy to reply to you.

I really hope you enjoyed it and will be thinking to come to visit us or it least won’t be upset if you must “waste” one night staying here in your way to you holidays .

ciao
φιλακια

Crazy night in Plaka ! updates August 2011!!!!!!!

http://www.athensbarcrawl.com/index.php

A friend of mine Kat just found it out ! I think it is an amazing idea to have some fun in athens ! to visit the best clubs and also meet people :) for the only cost of 20 Euros

I will try it in the next days and let you know

Gia mas !

Paros

paros2

I went to Paros many years ago and things now may be different…. For this reason I kindly asked to a friend of mine Panayotis to double check my memories and add some tips :) He loves Paros and he will buy a house there !! my next location for holidays in Paros!

Thanks Pan for your precious help !!!

Some info about Paros – ελλ. Πάρος

Paros is located in the center of Cyclades, in the Aegean Sea, in front of Naxos and near to Mykonos.

Comparing to most of the Cyclades it’s a quite big Island – it takes 1 hour of car to go from the South (Alyki) to the north (Naoussa).

In Paros you will find traditional villages, typical of Cyclades, with whitewashed cubic houses in narrow streets + exciting nightlife ! and amazing long sandy beaches and crystal waters …….

There is a small airport but if you are coming from abroad with a Charter probably you will land in Mykonos and then you will take a boat from there to reach the nice port of Parikia, in Paros.

To check out your trip by boat, the best official source is OpenSeas.gr. To arrive by plane, check out Airtickets.gr.

Paros is a perfect destination for friends, couples and teenagers too!!!

Let’s go to my trip

Paros was my second trip to Greece. We booked our holidays from Italy with a very low cost tour operator (now it is not working anymore and I can understand why ….. ) with formula roulette – therefore we didn’t know exactly which was our location in Paros. The only thing we knew was that Paros was in the Cyclades and that in August was quite windy – and it was !! For 5 consecutive nights we slept hearing the wind wistling outside …..

Our studios was located in Alyki, a very small town in the south and honestly not very much connected with the bus with the rest of the Island. I am talking about the bus because it was the cheapest way to move in the island – I didn’t have a lot of money and renting a car for 2 people was quite expensive….. Honestly I do not recommend rent a scooter since the island is quite big and quite windy too

After taking the bus so frequently we knew the bus driver, we knew the time schedule by hart and we improved our technique to get the sit on the bus :) on that issue pay attention to Greek Giagia’ (grandmothers) they will try to steal your sit and do not care if you are waiting for a person that will be sitting next to you… J

Once we went out of the tiny and quite town of Alyki – and we went to Naoussa – we tried whatever we could to change our location – unfortunately with no success. Still I must say that Alyki was very nice, the port/beach was very pleasant with amazing crystal waters, nice tavernas with good food but too quiet for a young couple …

Where to stay

There are countless hotels, houses, apartments, villas that you can get a room in Paros, you can Google and find many choices to suit your taste & budget. My friend Pan recommends some villas close to Golden Beach, that were built only in 2009 and have not been advertised a lot yet, so you may have a chance to rent one for a week. They are the ideal place for couples or families, 4 villas around a swimming pool, just 100 meters from the white sand. Check them out at goldenseavillas.gr, or call the friendly hostess Margarita at +30 697 7902728. Ask her for a better rate than the ones she has on the website, tell them you are Panayotis friends (‘Pan the president’ is the password).

Beaches

Everywhere you go you will find nice, sandy beaches with clear crystal waters. Also the beach close to the port of Parikia Livadia is wonderful!

On most of them you will find umbrellas with nice tavernas where you can eat and take some refreshments.

There is an ultra trendy beach where all teenagers meet – it’s like Mykonos’s Paradise Beach – Pounda Beach, close to Livadi Beach. All other beaches are for friends, family, great for relax and enjoy the sea.

I recommend Kolimbithres because it is very impressive (close to Naoussa)– it looks like Sardinia in some way. It is not very big but the huge blocks of granite sculpted by the wind are smooth and you can stand on them.

Pan’s favourite beach is Golden Beach. His dream is to build a house there when (and not if) he becomes a millionaire. Golden Beach is a long stretch of wide beach, close to Drios. The bus will take you there. It is one of the most popular beaches in Paros, with fantastic cafes, infrastructure and watersports. The good thing, is that it’s so big, and it rarely becomes so crowded that you can’t find a nice spot to sit under an umbrella. Golden Beach was the venue for the world windsurfing championships in 1993.

Towns

Parikia is the main town in Paros and main harbor too: Paros is very connected with other islands of the Cyclades and some tourists just jump to Parikia to have a quick walk on the Chora. The Chora is nice, with its characteristic narrow streets. You can find nice shops and tavernas.

Naoussa – small Venice ! When I visited Naoussa I felt in love with this beautiful fishing village. Actually I may say it is one of the prettiest towns in Cyclades I visited.

There are small canals, lot of tavernas, bars and clubs facing them and this is the town for night life ! Discos / clubs are open until down.

Since you are in Paros I would suggest to visit Antiparos, a small island a mile to the west of Paros. There is a famous stalactite cavern to visit and nice beaches too. Definetely worth a trip if you have transport, and car-ferries go every half hour or less from the port of Pounta and take 10 minutes to get across.

Ciao !

φιλακια

ps A huge thank you to my dear friend Christos that gave me the pictures of Antiparos and Lefkes ! ευχαριστω !!

Alonissos

Alonissos is the first Greek Island I visited – and thanks to this Summer trip I decided to come back to spend my Holidays in this Sunny and beautiful country again.

Alonissos is not only the first island I visited in Greece but … I decided to come again and for my surprise it was exactly the same: beautiful.

If you are looking for a quiet and romantic Island but most of all if you want to spend many hours doing snorkeling in the sea, this is the right destination ! Alonissos has the cleanest waters in the Aegean Sea.

Some information about Alonissos – ελλ. Αλονvησος
Alonissos belongs to the Sporades Islands, in the north of Greece and it is very green. It is located close to Skopelos and the only way to get to Alonissos is with the boat, despite on many maps they point out an airport that has never been build ! If you are coming with a charter you would land in Skiathos and then from there you will take a boat to Alonissos. There are plenty of connections in Summer.

Alonissos is mostly known for its beauty, its amazing beaches, its crystal waters but most of all for the marine park. If you are lucky you can see a rare species of monk seal, the Monathus Monachus. (an ex colleague of mine worked for the park and she told me that she had this great experience to see a small one, close to Marpounta !!!!)

Let’s go to my trip
As anticipated at the beginning of this post, I went twice to Alonissos. I decided to come back to this beautiful Island because I had the feeling that there was something missing from my previous trip – I had the dream to stay in the Palio’ Chorio’ – a very nice small village situated on the top of the hill, at 3 km from Patitiri, the main town and port of Alonissos. And this time I stayed there, on top of the hill, dominating the Island, with view to wonderful sunset from our balcony .. my dream came true !

Palio’ Chorio‘ – Old town of Alonissos was the old capital of the island, until in 1965 when there was a earthquake that destroyed everything and people moved to the sea, and build the new capital of the Island, Patitiri. Now all the old town has been restored and I may say it is simply elegant, chic, wonderful and gorgeous ! It is a calm place – and this is why I really love it – with whitewashed old houses (all restaured), all pedestrian, with narrow paved streets and stairs that bring you from the main square of the town to the hill. On your way you will find traditional caffes with life music in the night, very nice restaurants with suggesting view to the island. It is really a breathtaking experience.
In case you are staying in old chora or if you are going there just one evening for having a look, I strongly recommend to bring a pashima (scarf) or a jacket – if it is windy it might be quite cold.
There are good connections with the bus from Patitiri to the old town all day long.

Patitiri is the new capital of the Island and main port too. Since it is a new town – I may say it is not very characteristic. In Patitiri you will find a good bakery, all shops, clubs and restaurants.

Votsi is a very nice village close to Patitiri with a small charming port where you will find romantic fish tavernas. Suggestion: If you decide to spend there a night pay attention to the mosquitoes ! Be prepared otherwise they will suck all your blood – like they did to us :) Myself and my friend John kept on scratching for all the rest of our holidays ….. with a lot of pain :)

Gerakas – please do avoid your trip to Gerakas. The way is not very nice, most of all if you are driving a scooter, and after 40 minutes of driving from Patitiri you will just see an old port … nothing else.

Beaches
Talking about Alonissos there is not a beach that I prefer because all of them are astounding ! The only comment I must say in order to make you enjoy your stay, in all the beaches you will find small white stones, apart from Kokinokastro and Chrisi Milia. All beaches are simply amazing, most of them are organized – still never overcrowded – and with a good pair of shoes you can run and walk on the beach.

Kokinokastro – the name of this beach comes from Kokino & Kastro – red castle. Red due to the colours of the sand of of the rocks surrounding this beautiful bay. Kastro because they say that with the earthquake the walls of the ancient city have been covered by the sea …… this is the reason why this is the beach where people spend hours doing snorkeling to find it …… Well …. as you might imagine I have been looking for it for days …. but with no success :( maybe next time !

Agios Dimitrios is a very charming long beach – with a corner shape that you can see even from very far when approaching with your car. Since the beach is very white the colour of the waters seem even more crystal.

Leftos Gialos could be considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Alonissos, a real paradise with it’s crystalline turquoise waters and green vegetation surrounding the beach. There are nice and romantic tavernas where you can come also in the night to enjoy a dinner you will never forget …….

Chrisi Milia‘ is a very nice, organised, sandy beach.

Marpounta is the most south beach of Alonissos. Now it is a tourist resort, with hotels and bungalows complexes watching the sea. The first time I came to Alonissos I stayed there and I got 3 kg in 5 days …… the food was simply amazing! My mouth is still watering :)

Along all the coast you will find nice white beaches with turquoise waters – the only difficult thing you have to do is to choose where to stop :)

What I will never forget about Alonissos – eating fish in nice tavernas by the sea, under the shadow of olive trees and listening to life music on the Chora with the breathtaking view of the Island and its sunset.

Alonissos is an island I suggest anyone to visit at least once ! It is very quiet, romantic, chic and won’t disappoint.

Ciao !
φιλακια

Santorini

Enjoy my video on Santorini

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kizkjk5Vzdc&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

Santorini is the most suggestive Greek Island. It is so beautiful that I came back twice – to see the most beautiful sunset of the World ….

Some info about Santorini – ελλ. Σαντορινη

Santorini is located in the Cyclades islands, in the middle of Aegean Sea. Santorini is a volcanic island that faces the famous caldera.

Since Santorini is one of the most famous destination of Greece, it is very connected to all other Greek Islands and to Piraeus and there is also an airport.

The main colours of Santorini are: the black of the rocks, the white of the Cyclades houses and the green of the water.

Let’s go to my trip

As anticipated previously, I visited Magic Santorini twice ! It is so much impressive that I think I will come back this Summer ….

The first time I went to Santorini it was by boat .. I was in Paros and somebody suggested us to spend a couple of days in Santorini because it was really beautiful.

We went to a travel agency in Paros that helped us to find a studios and since it was just for 1 night they suggested us to stay in Oia – a beautiful town with view to Caldera and …. view to the most suggestive sunset in the world …..

From the port the first impression I had of Santorini it was that this Island was something different ! All the houses on top of the black cliffs seemed to be snow at a first sight !

It was August and it was very hot ! with no wind …… When we arrived at Oia I was blind due to the light reflected by the classic Cyclades white houses and the light reflected by the sea.

Our studio too was a great and nice surprise! In Paros we were staying in a very Spartan place … and that studio in Oia was so elegant that I was afraid to enter.

Fira is the main town in Santorini and it is located in the middle of it. It is close to the port and to the airport too. In Fira there is the main bus station with connection with all the places of the island.

It is a typical Cycladic village made of charming white houses with blue windows and doors, separated from each other by small paved streets. From Fira you have an incredible view to the volcano and a very nice sunset. Most Greek postcards represent this charming town.

Fira is a very busy town – lot of tourists, lot of hotels, nice restaurants, souvenir shops and in Summer streets are overcrowded. The nightlife is amazing !

Oia is the most charming village in Santorini. It a very picturesque village, with wonderful view to caldera. It is famous throughout the world for its impressive sunset: people start crowding after 7.00pm in order to see the most beautiful sunset of the world. I would suggest you to go there earlier at 6.00 pm and try to have a sit on the nice bars from where you can enjoy your greek coffee (caffe’ frappe’) while you are waiting for the sunset.

From Oia you can take a narrow path to go down to the port …… but do not underestimate your way back ! to go down it’s easy … to climb up it is different most of all if it is hot …. and if there are donkeys going up and down …. a real nightmare!! Still it is a very nice experience.

Beaches

Honestly I would not suggest Santorini as Summer destination if you are looking for nice white beaches. The sea is clean but since the color of the rocks is black it is not very much inspiring.

Perissa is a very touristic village with a nice and wide beach.

Red Beach – it is the most famous beach in Santorini. The beach is quite narrow and actually it is quite difficult to find a free umbrella. This beach is so impressive due to the black and red rocks behind it that people just come to have a look at it. In order to get there you should walk for a while.

I fully recommend to see Santorini at least for a couple of days. It’s very suggestive. There are very few like Santorini in the world.

Ciao !

φιλακια