Ursula’s Travels in Sunny Greece

Patmos

My dear Readers – Patmos.

Some years ago I was planning (again) my Summer holidays in Greece. I was looking for a nice, small island – but this time I wanted to move from Cyclades and see something different.

We started investigating and we saw that DOVE (Italian travel magazine) did a special issue on Patmos – the Island of the Apocalypse. Also some other friends of mine were going there – they already booked and were so excited …. so we went to a travel agency and booked our 2 weeks of holidays. Our destination was KOS and Patmos, Dodecanese Islands.

Some info about Patmos – ελλ. Πάτμος

Patmos is a very tiny island, located in Dodecanese. It has a shape of a seahorse, and from one corner you can see the end of the island. They say that Patmos is one of the most religious Greek Island – this is the Island where Saint John had its revelation and wrote the Apocalypse.

There is no airport on Patmos. There are good connections with Piraeus or if you are coming with a charter you may land in Kos and then take the boat to get to Patmos.

Let’s go to my trip

As I anticipated I was very excited about this trip because for the information I gathered I understood that Patmos was a very chic island ! ΑΝD I am a chic person !

It was not so easy to get to Patmos. Actually we had a direct flight from Milan to Kos – where we had to spend one night – and only the day after we could go to Patmos. Therefore I would not suggest this destination if you only have 1 week of holidays unless you live in Athens and the trip would be much easier.

Our hotel was in Skala, a very nice and chic bay and main harbor too. It is just in the middle of the islands: 20 minutes with the scooter from corner to corner !

Most of the touristic accommodations and I may say “affordable” are there in Skala: Skala is really a charming town where you can find nice taverns, shops and it’s the easiest way to get to all the beaches since you are right in the middle of the island! At that time there was not a good bus service on the island – apart the connection from Skala to Chora – therefore I strongly recommend to rent a scooter.

Patmos – Chora

As most of the Greek Chora, Patmos is simply marvelous! it’s located up on the mountain, about 4 km from Skala, with beautiful view to the sea. It is all pedestrian and really really chic.

In the Chora you will find charming shops, taverns, restaurants, bars and cafes and of course hotels and studios (rooms to rent). Staying in Chora I think it is a very romantic experience – a quiet and charming place to stay.

On the main square there is a very nice (actually it was the only one at that time) restaurant – Vangelis that later in the evening – when the restaurant is closed – shares the same tables with the club on the square. When I went there for dinner (I booked 2 days before !!!) there were all main important italian politicians sitting next to us ….. so chic !

On the Chora there is also a very big and beautiful monastery I recommend to visit – but you should be dressed properly to visit a church – no shirts and not T-Shirt, you would not be allowed to enter and visit it.

Cave of Apocalypse

On your way to Chora on the left you will find the Cave where Agios Ioannis wrote the Apocalypse. It’s very impressive to go there.

Beaches

The first thing I must tell you is that I was much impressed to see so many yachts in this island !

Patmos has several small beaches and four large bays with very crystal waters. In some of them you will fine small stones – Petra and Twins beach – the rest are sandy. On most of them you will find small green trees to stay under their shadows but you must get early to the beach …. the bigger are the ones that are taken first !

Most of them were organized and there were beautiful beaches that are perfect for having happy hours – with nice bars, with luxury furniture, perfect for laying and have your drink and eat finger food! I told you – this is a very chic island !

There is one beach (on the island it’s called the beach of the chains) that in order to get there, you should step out of the scooter, open a gate that it is closed and then close it again.

One sunset ….

One day we were coming back from an exhausting day of sunbathing :) when we saw a small white church on top of an hill. Since it was also close to sunset we decided to go and visit it also to enjoy the view.

While we were stepping up to the church we started hearing music, like syrtaki – we were so curious that we hurried up to see what was going on ! For our great surprise there was a Priest and some people – they were listening to the music, dancing and eating some typical Greek sweets. When they saw us they invited us to join them and I must say this is one of the most beautiful experience I had here in Greece: in this country you can feel the great hospitality of Greek people. When I will write about Nysiros I will tell you another chapter about their generosity.

I strongly recommend this island for friends, for teenagers and for couples too.

Ciao !

φιλακια

Skopelos

Before writing about Skopelos I was thinking and actually I wanted to describe other trips I have done years ago – Santorini, Paros, Kos, Patmos, Alonissos etc … .

Still since Skopelos is the Island where I am going to get married, I think it deserves more from me and that actually maybe it was supposed to be the FIRST Island I should have told you about ….

Honestly the main motivation that stopped me about writing regarding Skopelos as a first Greek destination – it is that unfortunately we visited this beautiful green island out-of-season and maybe I won’t be able to give my best to describe you how much beautiful this island is. Actually despite everything was closed, the beaches were empties and everything was sleeping – guys you cannot believe how chic this island is! This island impressed so much my fiance’ Kostas and myself that we decided to get married in Skopelos – next 26^th June in the Panagia of Skopelos, the small little white church on the bay of Skopelos.

Some info about Skopelos – ελλ. Σκοπελος

Skopelos is one of the 3 islands of the Sporades – located close to Volos (north Greece). Skopelos is located between Skiathos (second Mykonos in Greece) and Alonissos.

Now it is very famous thanks to the movie of Mamma Mia ! where everybody in the world could see the beautiful beaches with clean crystalline waters, the white rocks and the amazing pine tree forest that dominates Skopelos.

In Skopelos there is no airport – therefore the only way to get to this island is with the boat: from Volos, Agios Konstantinos or Thessaloniki and in Summer a couple of times a week also from the nice village of Kymi.

Let’s go to my trip

As already anticipated Skopelos is where we are going to celebrate our Wedding. I must be honest – we decided this location because I loved Mamma Mia! movie and I wanted to get married in Agios Ioannis like Sophy ! I wanted to be a star ! Therefore we fixed our trip to Skopelos in late October, in order to go and see with our eyes this island and most of all the 200 steps you had to do to get up to Agios Ioannis Church.

We found the only one hotel still open in Skopelos in that period (or they just opened for us) and I can assure you that we were the only tourists wandering in Skopelos– apart from few English we found in one taverna one evening.

Since we arrived in the night we couldn’t understand how was the island – I have been there years ago and I remembered that it was beautiful (and very hot!)– still you know, things change and you change too …. and I was very curious.

When we woke up the next day, everything was a great surprise! The Chora (Skopelos Town) was even more beautiful as I remembered – very nice, clean with all this fresh white painted houses and all the wood balconies – I can only imagine how much beautiful this small town will be in Summer, with all the flowers, all tavernas and bars open and the shops full of colorful souvenirs.

Strolling in the Chora I saw that many nice new bars opened, very chic and of course many places were named like the movie Mamma Mia !

Unfortunately we only had a long weekend to stay in Skopelos and we had to see all the island to understand if that was the right one – for our Wedding :)

We rented the car and we started discovering Skopelos.

They say that Skopelos is the greenest island in Greece – and I can confirm it. The forest goes down to the sea and it is simply amazing to see the forests reflected in the crystal waters.

As I told before all the beaches were empty – therefore I cannot say how they will be in Summer. What I can tell is that all of them are huge (for Greek island, not comparing to Italian Riviera) the sea is simply wonderful everywhere, you can smell the pine tree forest, there are tavernas close to the beaches and there is also where you can park your car !!!! (despite I know that in Skopelos in Summer there is a good Bus service that lead you from the Chora to the beaches). So what do you need to know more !

Following you will find some pics of the beaches we have seen:

Kastani
Milia (the beach of Mamma Mia!)
Panormos
Stafylos

no comments are requested – images simply talk by themselves

Concerning Agios Ioannis – I was very curious to see this wonderful tiny church located up in the rock. We had to drive to get to Agios Ioannis – actually it is not round the corner. It is half an hour from Skopelos Town and 20 minutes from Klima – a very nice small village that faces Skiathos. Once we arrived my brain, that elaborates 1.000 of info in a second, started making the pro and contra about the place, actually I found more countra:

where people will park the car,
if we are going to rend a minibus where we can park it
there are no donkeys there !
how I would be able to reach the steps to go up to Agio Ioannis with my sandals … someone should have to hold me
and of course ! how many steps shall I do until I get up to the Church ?

Despite of all of that contra, I was trying to convince myself that we could manage it! Even when we got up (15 minutes and we had pains in our legs for the 2 consecutive days) I was saying: this is simply amazing ! and it was – from Agios Ioannis you can see Alonissos, you have a beautiful view and at sunset (the time of our Wedding) it should be simply romantic ….

Still the contra started to shout at me – I say shout because the pro where very confident about winning – this is a stunning place !!! but my father will never get there … my friends will hate me … and I may also fall down and destroy by beautiful and expensive wedding dress!!!

So – after a long internal struggle – we decided to change our Church and we are going to get married in the beautiful Panagia of Skopelou. Next update in my blog you will see the pics of our wedding :)

Last place I would recommend to go and visit is Klima, a small town located over Glossa. From Klima you have an amazing view of Skiathos !

φιλακια

ps. you may find useful to have a look at Skopelos official Website – I honestly found it very useful, with plenty of info about where to stay, what to do and how to get to Skopelos

http://www.skopelosweb.gr/

Milos

My Dear Readers – Milos.

A couple of years ago I was looking for a new destination for our Summer Holidays.

I wanted to stay in Greece but to visit a non-touristic island and …. I heard about Milos….

I started gathering information about this island located in the Cyclades, and what I heard it was very positive! What it struck me it was that Milos is called the Island of a thousand colours and I love colours !!

So we decided to leave to Milos for one week.

Some info about Milos – ελλ. Μήλος

Milos is a wonderful volcanic island of the Cyclades with crystal clear waters.

The easiest way to get to Milos is with the boat – there is also a small airport but you need to buy the tickets a lot in advance!

Milos is quite a big Island: even if you spend 2 weeks in Milos you will never get bored. There are so many beaches to visit, places to see that actually you need some time to enjoy the island. Most of the beaches are reachable with the car but some of them you should need a jeep to get to – Honestly I would not suggest to rent a motorbike in Milos, for sure funny but quite risky.

Let’s go to my trip

When we decided the destination I was crazy trying to find a Windmill as studios – but despite it was June all of them where already rented for August! Therefore … if you are planning to go to Milos and you are looking for this particular experience of staying in one Windmill book it in advance :)

Anyway we found a beautiful studio near Sarakiniko – by the beach. It was quite far from all the main beaches located in the south (20 minutes by car) , but very quiet and romantic: I slept listening to the sound of the waves for almost every night…

Departure at Piraeus at about 7am – estimated arrival time 3pm (I hate speedy boat therefore we took the normal ferry) – quite a long trip actually :). For our great surprise on the boat there were many people wearing a T-Shirt saying – I love Milos. That was very good signal that our destination was right!

The trip was very nice – it was no windy at all – the sea looked like a lake – it was very warm and sunny. Since I had many hours before reaching Milos I tried to collect all info about it, as always reading my Lonely Planet AND of course listening to what other people was saying: you cannot imagine how many good information you can get on the boat!

Before arriving to Milos we went through the first Cyclades island – next possible future destinations and …. finally Milos was there – waiting for us, with its white rocks, turquoise waters and characteristic villages!

The main village and port is Adamas. It is a nice village, full of shops, tavernas and also a long beach – but all interesting places to visit are far from the port

First beach we visited was Paliochori – nice beach with natural hot springs in …. freezing waters… You could do snorkeling and see all the bubbles coming from the sand. Nice experience ! We spent a couple of days in this beautiful coloured beach.

But that was only the first of many beautiful beaches:

Papafrangas / Filakopi is a sandy beach between 2 cliffs with real crystalline water. If you go there is seems to swim in a swimming pool.

Sarakiniko: this beach is one of the most beautiful beaches of Milos and very particular one: it seems to walk on the moon. It’s completely bright white, all rocks have been shaped by the wind and the waters in the years, and the contrast with the turquoise of the sea is great. Very impressive.

Tsigrado: gorgeous small beach with green waters. You need some ability of free climbing to get to this beautiful beach – but I succeeded anyone can do it!

Firiplaka: this is an amazing beach with huge multicolored rock dominating the sea. You can see the history of the earth looking at these cliffs

I also suggest to go to Kleftiko – we took the touristic boat and had a very great time! We dived, did snorkeling and spend all the time in the crystal waters

Apart from amazing beaches, there are many nice villages in Milos to visit.

Plaka – the town on the top of the hill – is very characteristic – with all these streets, shops and tavernas BUT do not forget a good pair of shoes to go up to there! At the end of the main street- up on the hill – there is a famous bakery/ bar where there is a great view and where you can taste the famous Milos chocolate cake.

Klima is a stunning town on the sea, extremely characteristic! It’s seems to see a postcard, with those beautiful coloured fisherman houses – syrmata- carved into the rocks

At Mandrakia there is a wonderful white church, by the sea. It is also a good place to for dinner / lunch since there are nice tavernas.

Pollonia is a very nice village, the second most important in Milos. It is a charming fishing village, with a nice beach but I recommend this place for a romantic dinner – in Pollonia you can taste delicious spaghetti with lobster.

Shortly Milos is an island I fully recommend to people that do not like overcrowded island, for couples and families. There is a place for anyone but this is not Mykonos :)

See you in the next days, for new memories of my past trips

Ciao !

Φιλακια

Pelion

My Dear Readers – Pelion.

Surprisingly as first place I am not going to talk about magic Santorini, or any of the beautiful greek Islands I visited – but I would like to tell you about a recent trip I have done for New Years’ Eve – my travel to Pelion.

The reason is very simple: Pelion is a place it’s worth visiting all year long, so if you have any project to come to Greece in the next weeks / months, this could be a good suggestion.

Some info about Pelion – ελλ. Πηλιο.

Pelion is a mountain situated in central Greece, a 4 hours trips by car from Athens – some of my friends say even less, but it depends on the traffic and on the way you drive :)

The main close city is Volos, that has both a great port and the airport.

This place is really beautiful because it is a hook-like peninsula, between “2 seas” – Aegean on the right and the Pagasetic Gulf on the left. In mythology this is the place of centaurs

It’s also a ski center – imagine, skiing with a view of 2 seas and …. at the end of the day you just go down to the beach and have a bath !

Let’s go to my trip

My boyfriend decided to bring me to this place for celebrating the incoming 2010 . He arranged everything and I only had to prepare our (or to be honest mine) huge and very heavy suitcases … (just for 3 days of trip !!! but you know I am Italian, fashion addicted and I couldn’t forget shoes and bags for any eventual needs)

I was very curious to see this new place –Makrinitsa, the balcony of Pelion – everybody was telling me so good things about it.

When we arrived at Volos I suddenly understood why they called Makrinitsa the balcony of Pelion – you should see this beautiful town up on the mountain, like if houses were sticked to the earth .

The houses in Pelion are a very particular shape – like towers – and reminded me about medieval buildings.

We visited immediately Makrinitsa – really beautiful

It’s all pedestrian, with nice characteristic houses, with shops from the entrance that lead you to the main square, with the ancient plane tree . Makrinitsa is very famouse for her herbs , teas and chamomiles – I strongly recommend to buy some and we don’t have to forget their characteristic rolled sweets with nuts, sesame seeds and caramel.

On the main square there is a foutain, a nice church and a beautiful view to Volos.

The weather was very nice, despite it was end December there still were about 20 degrees, and many people were enjoying the sun on the big main square, sitting, eating, having coffees – just relaxing.

We had very nice time in Makrinitsa – the town in the evening is so magic too !

This is a very romantic place to stay in winter – imagine this place with the snow – and a good and “fresh” place for Summer, where you can enjoy some fresh air and have nice walks in the forests.

Around Makrinitsa

If you have time and do not want to stay in your beautiful and romantic hotel in Makrinitsa, there are plenty of nice places to visit.

Pelion Peninsula

On foot from Makrinitsa you can go to Portaria. It’s a nice walk, where you can enjoy the view and the nature. Portaria is very nice small town, very characteristic too. From the main square you have a wonderful view of Volos.

If you want to take the car and see the beautiful Pelion Peninsula there are many nice towns to visit. It’s a long way, going up and down the mountain, but it is very relaxing and the view is amazing – siga’ siga’ (slowly slowly). You can stop for a coffee and enjoy the view, or have have lunch in a very nice tavernas in the small towns up on the mountains – I strongly recommend to eat stifado and all local “meat” dishes – or you can go down to the coast and eat fish in a psari taverna.

You will see the ski center, from there you have a view to both seas. You should visit nice Milies, famous also for the train that takes you from Ano Ieonia to Milies (unfortunately it was closed when we went, since it was winter – but next time we will go to Pelion we will for sure take this very nice and characteristic train). A friend of mine also suggested me just to follow the rails from Milies train station and to go down on foot to the coast. He told me that it’s a very nice walk! And … for your way back, well …. Take a taxi J .

Close to Milies there is also a very nice tiny town called Visitsa – since you arrived to Milies it’s worth to go also to visit this small jewel of Pelion.

We haven’t visited much of the other coast towns – that are really Summer locations. My Greek friends told me that this is a great area for Summer.

Volos

Volos is considered one of the main important cities in Greece. It’s located between Salonika and Athens I was positive impressed by this very nice city!

It has a very active port – from there you can go to my favorite islands – Sporades Islands – and also an airport.

The center is all pedestrian, Agio Nikoalu fully dominates the small streets of the center and there are very nice shops! I would suggest you to visit this city during working days / Saturday. All along the port there are plenty of very nice bars where you can stop and enjoy the sea and the nice Sunny Greek weather.

Milies Main Square

My memories of Pelion stop here for the moment. We will come back to see this beautiful place in Spring and Summer and of course when there is also the snow.

Ciao !

φιλακια

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